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225mm Lead Screw Z axis kit now in stock(orange router, blue ring and z axis motor not included)


Image of 225mm Lead Screw Z axis kit now in stock(orange router, blue ring and z axis motor not included)
  • Image of 225mm Lead Screw Z axis kit now in stock(orange router, blue ring and z axis motor not included)
  • Image of 225mm Lead Screw Z axis kit now in stock(orange router, blue ring and z axis motor not included)
  • Image of 225mm Lead Screw Z axis kit now in stock(orange router, blue ring and z axis motor not included)

now in stock Originally was going to use a wooden z axis, but we have decided to use laser cut metal for better durability and strength. That is why photos have been updated. Includes metal base and hardware to make a DIY z axis sled. Estimated time to assemble is 1 hr. Base plate is just under 15x15" x 1/4 thick and weighs about 14 lbs.
UMWH slipery plastic on base will allow saw dust to be removed from under the sled. Speed of z axis about 3x faster than stock.
Two hand bolts allow fast removal of router for bit changes.

This does NOT come with a ring for the chains OR z axis motor

Bill of Materials
Metal Sled
Aluminum Z axis collumn
Aluminum Gantry Plate
Router clamp with 2 thumb screws & four 1/4-20 mounting screws
Lead Screw 8mm pitch 200mm long
2 Pillow block bearings 8mm ID on each end
2 solid 8mm dia barsx 225mm long.
4 Linear bearings 8mm ID each with
four machine screws 4mm dia each total of 16
UMHW white plastic ring held on with
5 screws 6-32 size, 5 aluminum spacers 1/8" ID by 1/8" tall and 5 square nuts
198mm long 1x1" square aluminum tube with two 4.5" long 1/4-20 bolts and nuts
two gears and timing belt.
PVC table mount port with 3 screws for mounting and street elbow



Instructions for assembling sled and z axis. Including the time to paint the sled, we estimate this will take about 30-40minues to assemble.
you will need a drill with 1/4 and 3/16 drill bits, and phillips screw driver bit and a pair of pliars along with the allen keys included in the kit. You will also need two things not supplied in the kit, your Chain Ring kit and z axis motor.

We recommend using locktite for all screws to prevent them from loosening over time. Always check for tight connections before running the maslow machine.

it is highly recommended you clean the steel plate and use spray paint primer and paint it before assembling it to prevent rust from forming. Let it dry for a few days to let the paint harden before assembling. If you are in a rush use a fast drying spray paint and/or use heat lamps to "bake" on the paint.

the two pillow bearings that hold the z axis lead screw have tiny 1.5mm set screws. Unfortunately the metal housing partially blocks these set screws. We recommend you file down the lip so the allen key to tighten goes in straight (vs an angle) While you are at it file a flat spot on each end of the lead screw so the set screws hit the flat and make stronger contact.

The first pre order batch of aluminum z axis needs the 2 holes for the bottomm pillow block raised about 1/4" higher. Take a 3/16 drill bit and simply drill them out. If you want the router to go downn a little big more you can also lower the left and right bottom 8mm rod holders. Kits shipped out after 8/13/20 already have these extra holes drilled out.

1. take the 1 1/4 white pvc adapter and bolt it onto the bottom small hole using 3 weld nuts and three 6/32 screws.

2. Located 5 screws 6-32, 5 square nuts 6/32 and 5 small aluminum spacers 1/8" tall circled shaped and long white plastic about 46" long. Make the plastic easeir to bend by putting it in very hot water or hot car, etc. Bend it so channel if facing up to the sky instead of toward the center of the circle. Put the 5 screws in the plate, then put 5 spacers on top of the screws, and screw on square nuts.
***********Step 3 is for those not using a dedicated z axis. Skip to step 4 if you will be using a dedicated z axis.
3. if you will be using the rigid router with the z axis motor attached to it then remove the clear plastic base from your router and attach the grey metal base to the steel base plate using the 3 10-32 screws you just removed. attach the ring kit using six 6-32 screws and weld nuts and attached the z axis using 2 more screws and weld nuts. Each foot has 6 holes, but only the middle 2 are using for mounting. if you wish to drill more holes and add more screws you can do that.

4. Attach the Ring kit (not included) to the steel base using two 6-32 screws and weld nuts per foot. the feet have more holes if you wish to drill out more holes and attach more screws one can, but we think 2 is suffcient.

This completes the steel base section. Next we will assemble the aluminum z axis parts.
As a general rule whenever you are attaching a part with more than 2 screws, Attach the screws loosely first, make sure everthing aligns and then tightnen them down. do not tighten down one screw at a time because you will have to loose the screws to get it aligned anyways.

A. Take the aluminum gantry plate and attach the black plastic lead nut (two 5mm lock nuts preinstalled inside) to the plate using two flat head 5mm screws. Put two super thin/small washers on the nut block counterbores to raise the surface flush then Put a 1cm long aluminum spacer above that and screw it all together.

B. locate the 8mm solid rods and put two linear slides on each one. Next take the above gantry plate and 16 4mm phillips screws and attach the 4 linear bearings to the plate (4 screws per plate). if you forget to put the solid rods throuogh the linear slides , do not try jamming the rods through afterwards. The tolerances are pretty tight and you will probabaly break off the small ball bearings. Simply loosen up the 4 linear guides and gently insert the solid 8mm rod. rounding off the sharp ends of the 8mm rod can help.

C. Next locate the 4 aluminum stand offs and put one on each end of the solid 8mm rods. Make sure the allen screw is facing outwards so it is easy to access.snug the screws so they dont' fall off. take the 8mm threaded rod and screw it into the black plastic nut. It should be snug, Adjust the tension screw in the black plastic block to remove any slop! some blocks have too much tension to begin with and need to be loosend. Loosely attach the two pillow block bearings on each end of the t8 threaded rod.

D. Now it's time to take the entire assembly above and attach it to the big aluminum rectangle part. Using the 10-32 screws and lock nuts LOOLEY attach the 4 aluminum stands offs to the Aluminum rectangle part. Next attach the two pillow blocks in the same manner. slide the entire gantry up and down making sure it slides smoothly before tightening down all 12 screws. After tightening the 12 screws check to make sure it goes smoothly again.

E. Locate the 60teeth and 20t gears and 200mm gt2 belt, along with your z axis motor (not included) Loosely attach the z axis motor to the top of the aluminum box using 4 screws. Attach the 60t gear to the top of the z axis motor and the 20t gear on top of the 8mm lead screw. Put the 200mm gt2 belt on top of the gear and pull them apart. Mark where the z axis motor screws need to be tighted down and then remove the gears and motors and tighten down the z axis motor. Now with the belt around the 2 gears simultaneously put on both gears on at the same time and tighten down the allen set screws.

F. take the router clamp and 4 screws 1/4-20 by 1/2" long and screw the clamp to the flat aluminum gantry plate. If you are using the ridgid router make sure the groove is located on the correct side.

G. Now we need to attach the entire assembly to the base plate. First take the 198mm long 1x1" square aluminum tube and make a hole 1 7/8 (1.875") away from each end using a 1/4" drill. Kits shipped out after 8/13/2020 will have these holes pre drilled. Take the square tube and put it inside the aluminum rectangle and use two 1/4-20 1" long screws to attach it on each side (use the 3rd hole from front).

H. Take the entire assmebly and insert the aluminum tabs into the corresponding slots in the steel base. take two 4.5" long 1/4-20 bolts and insert them from the bottom throuogh the square tube and put washers and nuts on top to secure the entire assembly together.

Dust collection with the sled.
The sled commes with a 1 1/4" PVC flange and street elbow for dust collection. Many people have shop vacs with 32mm diameter hoses. One can attach this hose to the PVC fittings and secure it with some tape. Other people have much stronger dust collectors that use wider 4" vac hose and will have to use step down adapters. For maximum vacumm we recommend the following
1. on the bottom of that plate cover up any unused holes with tape to prevent air from escaping.
2. take a thin sheet of clear plastic (disposable food cover, many plastic lids, etc) and double side tape it over the 4" center hole to force the wood chips to stay under the plate. drill a 1 "hole in the middle so your roter and bit can pluge all the way down.

Notes on frame size and sled usage. The sled is 27 lbs and 14 oz including the ridgid router attached. For a sled this heavy we recommend you raise the motor bar up to at leaset 2 feet above the plywood. This will alieviate the stress on the motors in the top center middle of the board. If you cut a straight line along the top of the plywood and notice a sag in the middle this means your motors are struggling and you need to raise them higher. Alternatively lower the plywood 6" or more. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1mv-sUyig7rTph58ell1ETJP32yo1pq4JgaVvp45PKqU/edit#gid=0 This spread sheet shows forces.

Software settings. In the softare the pitch needs to be changed from 3.17mm to -24mm. It is negative because the z motor is "upside down" from the original setup. This will increase the z axis about 8x faster than stock z axis motor.


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